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‘What’s Delhi-belly anyway?’ she called – doubled up in pain – from the en suite bathroom. “And why Delhi when we’re in Cambodia!” He and I tried not to giggle. But then she was sick and sick and sick and before long He was declaring himself in the same state of affairs. No one laughed then.

We had been struck by a local tummy bug – Mini hit the most – rendering us doubled up in pain and certainly nil by mouth. Our travel day – via Bangkok with a good few hours stop over – was tricky to say the least. But we ate white rice, drank water and kept on going.

landing on the island of Koh Samui

Finally we landed on the island of Koh Samui and found ourselves in a sanctuary of Thai beach calm. My brief for suitable hotel for part three of this tour was that it should be suitable for families but ABSOLUTELY not a ‘family hotel’. Continuing that it should not flash but really comfortable (as our final chill-out of the trip), with good food but not fussy fiddly cuisine and that it should make us feel as we are truly off the beaten track (eg nothing too busy in the madness of Koh Samui) where we could roam bare foot all day long.

Well, this is Tongsai Bay Resort.

The first ever 5 star hotel on the island (back in 1983) but designed in the most understated, authentic way, the spacious 25 acre property feels more like a Thai home in its décor and design.

The story goes that the then chairman of The Imperial Family of Hotels first spotted Tongsai Bay from the sea and fell for it hook – line – sinker. For three months, he slept on the beach dreaming of his ideal resort on this plot of land. Passionate about the natural beauty of the bay, he stipulated that each cottage must be constructed from only one single tree.

our ridiculously large balcony deck – with outside bath!

There are now 83 of these cottages, the remaining natural surroundings remain unaltered and the business is still privately owned. (He sold off his hotel group but retained this jewel.)

table 5 for lunch anyone?

That first night I was concerned that perhaps The Bug was leaving Mini dehydrated and generally not in good shape. I took to Facebook for some friendly doctor advice (potentially the social media platform’s perfect attribute) and slept less than I would have liked.

In the morning I turned to the hotel for advice and found us all in one of their cars making a dash for the island’s best hospital, Bangkok Hospital Samui (honestly it is mind-blowingly brilliant). An IV antibiotic drip later plus a party bag of medications for both Mini and Him, we were back on track.

a brand new Mini waiting for breakfast pancakes

milkshakes and freckles by the pool

coconut plantations are still the main source of income on the island

boys in a boat

So after five days of R&R, paddle boarding, kayaking, swimming and reading (you know the drill), we’ve come to the end of what has been a pretty thrilling adventure in Asia.

Tomorrow it’s time to journey home and to start to dream of new travels…

{To catch up – Part One of our adventure is here and Part Two here.}

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok swimming pool

This trip has been a long time coming. A really, really long time if you count the first time He and I mentioned the idea. On our way to Brother’s wedding in Melbourne we made our first visit to the iconic Mandarin Oriental hotel in Bangkok purely as a night stop-over. Relaxing by the swimming pool, we observed a family of four; children splashing around in the water while their parents (with a slightly smug smirk) read their books. Ice water, cold face flannels were served alongside coconut ice cream incase anyone felt remotely peckish. The scene was idyllic. All we needed to do was produce a family and return one day.

Of course, life often doesn’t work out quite that way. The couple of smalls weren’t as forthcoming as we wished and, a few years later, we found ourselves returning to this beautiful hotel en route to a week’s holiday in Phuket.   In fact, I distinctly remember reading a book – on adoption – reasonably frantically.

family tuk tuk selfie

And finally, this time, we’re 4. The city of smiles, our chosen hotel with quite astonishingly superior service and the (now present) Smalls has fulfilled our dream.

12 years on, Bangkok is, of course, much changed with a glittering skyline to reflect this.

trip down the Klongs

But we did take a long tail boat down the Klongs to see how those live on the water. Shacks with pots and pots of well tended plants, barely there roofs plus the obligatory satellite dish. Fixated on showing our Smalls the world-at-large (ie those who aren’t complaining about piano practice and fish fingers), we also walked around the less privileged areas, trying our best to point out how life in Bangkok compares and contrasts to our own lives in London. Bartering, being street smart and respecting their culture led to many questions – some sharp and others plain amusing.

traditional dancing at the hotel’s Sala Rim Naam restaurant

A little about the hotel, this beloved establishment. For those you aren’t aware, it first opened its doors 139 years ago. Since then royalty, statesmen, politicians, businessmen, authors and performers have enjoyed The Oriental’s hospitality. A sanctuary during the 2^nd WW (occupied by both Japanese and American forces), the hotel went on to a new ownership of local city residents, including one Mr Jim Thompson (we loved visiting the “Thai Silk King”’s home).

beyond delicious homemade chocolates sent to the room

Full of tradition, culture, class and yet intense luxury and probably the best service in the world, I can think of no better place I’d like to be permanently relocated.

Sometimes too much service can be an irritant. Not here.

Mini with her jasmine flower garland

Reviving jasmine flower garlands as you step off your long haul flight. A cocktail in the 1950s jazz Bamboo Bar. Traditional Thai cuisine and dancing across the river in the Sala Rim Naam restaurant. Handmade chocolates sent (from the lobby) to your room. A lift man who knows your name. A special message at turndown to lure you into a deep sleep. And that refreshing coconut ice cream by the pool.

cocktails at Bamboo Bar (usually kids aren’t allowed in but Small sneaked in for a mock-tail)

I honestly can’t think of any reason to leave this slice of heaven.

{Other than we are moving into part two:  Cambodia of our Asia adventure.}